Plenty of room, lots of pockets, PUL lining, adjustable strap... this diaper bag has it all. Plus, most importantly for a bag that's your constant companion for months: it's GREAT looking! In fact, it might be hard to give up this pretty bag once your baby has become a more compact traveller. We used a coordinated pair of Premier Prints twill-weight cottons from sponsor, Fabric.com. To this medium weight fabric, we added a fusible interfacing on all the main pieces, and the sides and bottom have the extra stability of a fusible craft fleece. Our bag is meant to stand up to heavy daily use! Today is the final project in our Oh Baby! series with Fabric.com. Make sure you check out all the great ideas and information. Whether you're making items for yourself or as gifts, you're sure to find something wonderful. If you scroll to the bottom of the instructions, you'll find all the related articles in the two-week series.

Our thanks again to Fabric.com for sponsoring the Oh Baby! series. As usual, they have been a delight to work with. If you've never visited, now's a great time to shop online through 500,000+ yards of fabric, plus notions, patterns and more. Shipping is always free for US orders of $35 and up, plus you get 37" for every yard ordered, and a 100% satisfaction guarantee, including free return shipping. You'll want to be here tomorrow, when we unveil an exciting Great Giveaway... just in time for holiday shopping!

The lining for this diaper bag is the popular Polyurethane Laminate (PUL). If you're new to working with PUL, check out our tutorial.

The bag finishes at approximately 14" x 14" x 6".

Sewing Tools You Need

• Any Sewing Machine (we recommend the Janome Horizon 7700QCP)

Fabric and Other Supplies

• 1½ yards of 54" wide medium to heavy weight cotton fabric for the bag exterior and handle top; we used 54" wide medium weight Madison in French Blue and Brown by Premier Prints from Fabric.com
  
• ⅝ yard of 54" wide medium to heavy weight cotton fabric for the flap lining and handle bottom; we used 54" wide medium weight Polka Dot in French Blue and Brown by Premier Prints from Fabric.com
  
• 1½ yards of 60" wide of Polyurethane Laminate (PUL) for the bag lining; we used 1 ml PUL in Optic White from Fabric.com
  
• ⅝ yard fusible craft fleece; such as Heat 'n' Bond fusible fleece
  
• 2 yards medium-weight fusible interfacing; such as Heat 'n' Bond fusible interfacing
  
• One 3-yard package of wide single fold bias tape: we used Wrights extra wide, double-fold bias tape in Mocha(not shown in photo above)
  
• ONE 6" x 14" rectangle of plastic canvas(not shown in photo above)
  
• 2½ yards ¼" elastic (not shown in photo above)
  
• ONE swivel hook for inside key holder
  
• THREE 1¼" - 1½" rectangular rings
  
• ONE 1¼" - 1½" rectangular slider 
  
• ONE magnetic purse clasp
  
• All-purpose sewing thread in colors to match fabric and binding
  
• Scissors or rotary cutter and mat
  
• See-through ruler
  
• Straight pins 
  
• Clips for PUL
  
• Seam gauge 
  
• Seam ripper
  
• Small safety pin
  
• Iron and ironing board

Getting Started

1. Download and print TWO copies of the Diaper Bag Flap Bottom pattern, TWO copies of the Diaper Bag Flap Top pattern, and ONE copy of the Diaper Bag Strap Tab pattern.
   IMPORTANT: Each pattern consists of ONE 8½" x 11" sheet. You must print the PDF files at 100%. DO NOT SCALE to fit the page.
   
2. Cut out each pattern along the solid lines.
   
3. Following the diagram on the Diaper Bag Flap Bottom page, butt the four pieces together to create one full flap pattern. Do NOT overlap. Tape together.
   
4. From the fabric for the bag exterior (Madison in our sample), cut the following: 
   TWO 15" x 21" side panels 
   TWO 7" x 15" bottom panels 
   ONE 11" x 23" rectangle for the outer pocket
   ONE 2½" x 44" strip for the long strap
   ONE 2½" x 12" strip for the short strap
   ONE 3" x 4" rectangle for the interior key hook
   Using the pattern, cut ONE flap
   Using the pattern, cut FOUR strap tabs
   
5. From the fabric for the interior highlights (Dot in our sample), cut the following: 
   TWO 3" x 21" facings 
   ONE 2½" x 44" strip for the long strap
   ONE 2½" x 12" strip for the short strap
   Using the pattern, cut ONE flap
   
6. From the PUL, cut the following
   TWO 13" x 21"rectangles for the side panels 
   ONE 11" x 27" rectangle for the pleated pockets 
   ONE 11" x 21" rectangle for the flat pockets 
   ONE 7" x 15" rectangle for the bottom panel 
   ONE 11" x 23" rectangle for the outer pocket
   
7. From the fusible craft fleece, cut the following: 
   TWO 15" x 21" rectangles for the side panels 
   ONE 7" x 15" rectangle for the bottom panel
   
8. From the fusible interfacing, cut the following: 
   TWO 3" x 21" rectangles for the facings 
   ONE 11" x 15" rectangle for the outer pocket
   TWO 2½" x 44" strips for the long strap
   TWO 2½" x 12" strips for the short strap
   Using the pattern, cut TWO flaps
   Using the pattern, cut FOUR strap tabs

At Your Sewing Machine & Ironing Board

Fusing

1. Find the TWO 15" x 21" exterior side panels and ONE of the two 7" x 15" exterior bottom panels. Following the manufacturer's instructions, fuse the craft fleece to the wrong side of all three pieces.
   
   
2. Find the four strap strips, the four strap tabs, the two facings, and the two flaps. Following the manufacturer's instructions, fuse the matching interfacing piece to the wrong side of each of these pieces.  
   
3. Find the 11" x 23" outer pocket piece. Place it right side down on your ironing board, but make sure the top and bottom edges are correctly oriented. Place the remaining 11" x 15" piece of fusible interfacing on the fabric, aligning the left side and the top and bottom edges. This will leave the right side with just fabric showing. Following the manufacturer's instructions, fuse in place. 
   

Straps and tabs

1. Match each outside strap to its coordinating inside strap (long to long, short to short).
   
2. Sew each pair together, using a ½" seam allowance, leaving one end open on each for turning. 
   
3. Trim the seams and clip the corners. 
   
   
4. Turn right side out. 
   
5. Edgestitch along the three sewn sides of each strap. 
   
   
6. Place two of the strap tabs right sides together. Sew together, using a ½" seam allowance along the sides and top. Leave the straight edge open for turning. 
   
7. Trim the seams and clip the corners.
   
   
8. Turn right side out. Edgestitch along the sewn seam. 
   
9. Repeat with the remaining two tabs.
   
10. Slip the tab end through a rectangular ring and fold the end over the ring just enough to allow you room to stitch the end in place (approximately ½"). 
    
11. Following the original edgestitching, stitch across the end to secure. 
    
    
12. Repeat with the remaining tab and ring. 
    NOTE: We used a 1¼" rectangular ring, which caused our tab to have a slight gather; this matched the gathered pocket on either side. If you'd prefer a completely straight tab, get a 1½" rectangular ring (an option mentioned in the supply list above).
    

Front pocket and body of the bag

1. Cut a length of the single fold bias tape just a bit longer than the top edge of the outer pocket.
   
2. Unfold one edge of this length of bias tape. 
   
3. Pin the single layer bias tape to the top edge of the outer pocket; the raw edges should be aligned. The wrong side of bias tape is against the right side of fabric. 
   
   
4. Sew the bias tape in place, using a ¼" seam. 
   
5. Place the outer pocket (with the binding sewn in place) right side up on your work surface. The interfaced portion of the pocket should be on the right. 
   
6. Measure 8½" in from the left edge and draw a vertical line. This will be used as a stitch line to follow to create your pocket.
   NOTE: You are working on the right side of the fabric, so make sure to use a fabric pen or pencil that washes away or fades with exposure to the air. 
   
7. Find the 11" x 23" rectangle of PUL for the outer pocket.
   
8. Place the PUL outer pocket and the fabric outer pocket right sides together. Pin in place, keeping the pins within the seam allowance.
   
   
9. Stitch the two layers together, following along in the bias tape seam. Remove the pins as you go. 
   
10. Fold the PUL to the back so the two pieces are now wrong sides together with a seam along the top edge. Press in place from the front. Press down the free, folded edge of the bias tape. 
    
11. Edgestitch along the entire free, folded edge of the bias tape through all the layers. You are creating a casing for the elastic.
    
    
12. Cut a 24" length of elastic. 
    
13. Attach a small safety pin to one end of the elastic and insert the elastic into casing, threading it through until approximately ½" extends out each end.
    
14. Find one of the two 15" x 21" side panels. Place it right side up on your work surface. 
    
15. Place the outer pocket piece, also right side up, on top of the side panel. Align the right sides and bottom edges of the two pieces. The opposite edge of the pocket will extend beyond the panel. Pin in place along the right edge.
    
16. Carefully take the two pieces to your sewing machine. Stitch the two layers together along the drawn vertical stitch line, backstitching across the casing to reinforce this point. This vertical seam line is creating the flat portion of the outer pocket. 
    NOTE: The extreme close-up image below almost makes it appear that there is a break in the bias binding. That is an optical illusion. What you are seeing is the locked seam at the top of the pocket panel - the point where we finished our vertical seam line.
    
    
17. Take the layers back to your work surface and again lay them right side up. 
    
18. Match the left side of the pocket with the left edge of the side panel, and pin in place. 
    
19. Along the bottom, create a box pleat to accomodate the fullness, and pin it in place.
    
20. Pull on the left side of the elastic until gathers form and the upper edge of the pocket lays flat against the side panel.
    
    
21. Machine baste the pocket to the side panel. Start in the left corner at the casing, stitch down, pivot at the bottom left corner, stitch along the bottom edge (across the pleats), pivot at the bottom left corner, stitch up to the top right corner of the casing. This machine basting secures the two layers to one another, and secures the elastic and pleats in place.
    
    
22. Trim away the excess elastic.
    
23. Lay the remaining outside side panel right side up on your work surface. It should lay in the finished direction - with the 21" sides top and bottom and the 15" sides left and right. 
    
24. Mark a vertical stitching line 6½" in from the left edge of the panel. Stitch along the line.
    
25. Place the two side panels right sides together, aligning the 15" sides. 
    
26. Stitch along both sides through all layers, using a ½" seam allowance. This forms the body of the diaper bag (it is just a ring at this poing - no top or bottom).

Bottom of the bag

1. Find the two bottom panels in the exterior fabric. One is fused with the craft fleece and one is plain.
   
2. Place the bottom panel with the fusible fleece wrong side up on your work surface. 
   
3. Fold under one short end of the plain bottom panel ½" along one 7" end and press. 
   
4. Place the plain fabric panel, right side up, on top of the fleece panel. Align the raw edges of both pieces.    
   
   
5. Baste the two pieces together along the three raw edges. The short side with the folded edge should not be basted.
   NOTE: Both sides of this panel have the fabric right side out, but the side with the folded edge (which forms a little pocket) is considered the "wrong side" as we move through these next few steps.  
   
6. Find the body of the bag. Turn it wrong side out.
   
7. Insert the bottom panel into the bag, aligning the right sides of the bottom of the bag with the right sides of the bottom panel. It's like setting a lid upside down into a box. 
   
8. Match the corners of the bottom panel to the corners of the diaper bag body. Pin in place all around, adjusting as necessary and using plenty of pins to insure the panel sits in the bag evenly and square.
   
   
9. Clip the diaper bag at the corners. You are clipping into the corner at a diagonal at a depth of about ⅜". This frees up the seam allowance so you can stitch each side of the bag independently.
   
10. Using a ½" seam allowance, sew the bottom panel to the body of the diaper bag. Start and stop at each corner.  
    NOTE: When you get to the side with the folded edge, take care to not catch this edge of in the stitching. You need this 'pocket' to be open to allow you to insert the stiffener that will create the solid bottom of the bag. 
    
11. Insert the plastic needlepoint canvas into the bottom panel 'pocket.'
    
    
12. Hand stitch the opening closed. 
    
13. Turn the diaper bag right side out.

Flap

1. Find the two flap pieces and the single fold bias tape.
   
2. Place the flap lining (the Dot in our sample) wrong side up on your work surface.
   
3. Mark the placement for the outer half of the magnetic snap 3" up from the lower edge and centered side to side. Following the manufacturer's instructions, insert this half of the snap.
   
   
4. Find the diaper bag body. Place it on your work surface with the front (the non-pocket side) facing up. Mark the placement for inner half of the magnetic snap 4½" down from the upper edge and centered side to side. Following the manufacturer's instructions, insert this half of the snap. 
   
   
5. Cut a length of the single fold bias tape a couple inches longer than the curved edge of the flap. The straight edge does not get bias tape.
   
6. Unfold one edge of this length of bias tape. 
   
7. Pin the single layer bias tape to the curved edge of the exterior flap (The Madison in our sample); the raw unfolded edge of the bias tape should be ¼" down from the raw edge of the flap.  The wrong side of bias tape is against the right side of fabric. This is similar to how you attached the bias tape to the outer pocket above.
   
   
8. Sew the bias tape in place, using a ½" seam (½" from the raw edge of the fabric).
   
9. Place the flap lining and the flap exterior right sides together, sandwiching the bias tape in between. Pin in place around the curved edge only, leaving the straight edge open.
   
10. Stitch the two layers together, following along in the original bias tape seam. 
    
    
11. Trim the seam back to ¼" and clip the curve.
    
12. Turn the flap right side out through the straight edge opening.
    
13. Press well, pressing down the free, folded edge of the bias tape. 
    
    
14. Edgestitch along the entire free, folded edge of the bias tape through all the layers.
    
    
15. Pin the flap in place on the diaper bag, right sides together. The flap is positioned against the back of the bag body, the side with the outer pocket. Align the raw edges of the flap and the bag body, and center the flap side to side within the panel
    
16. Find the two strap tabs.
    
17. Pin one to each side of the bag body. Each tab should be positioned so the raw edges of the tab and the raw edges of the bag body are aligned and the tab is centered side to side within each side section. When each tab is in position, there should be about 1" of space between the flap and the strap tab.
    

Inside pockets from the PUL

1. Collect all the remaining PUL pieces.
   
2. Find the 11" x 27" panel. Fold down ½" along one 27" side. Topstitch ⅜" from the folded edge to form a small casing. Mark the panel for pockets: place the first vertical line 8½" in from the left raw edge and a second line 9" from this first line. 
   
   
3. Cut a 28" length of elastic. 
   
4. Attach a small safety pin to one end. With this end, thread the elastic into the casing and pull it through until there is about ½" extending from each end. The pocket unit should still lay flat at this point.
   
5. Mark one of the 13" x 21" PUL side panels for pocket placement: place the first line 6½" from the left raw edge and the second line 7" from this first line.
   
6. Place the 11" x 27" panel with elastic over the 13" x 21" panel marked for pocket placement. Both pieces should be right sides facing up (marked sides facing up). The bottom edges of the two pieces should be even.
   
7. Align the first line on the bottom panel with the first line on the top panel and pin in place. 
   
   
8. Stitch along the drawn lines, back stitching across the elastic to secure it at this point.
   
9. Align the left edges of the two pieces of PUL and pin in place. Pull the elastic from the left, adjusting the fullness to fit the pocket width. Pin the elastic in place. 
   
10. Create a box pleat at the lower edge of the pocket to accommodate the lower fullness. Machine baste along the side and across the bottom of the pocket. Trim excess elastic. 
    
    
11. Align the second set of marked vertical lines, the lower edges should still be even. Pin in place. Pull the elastic from the right, adjusting the fullness to fit the pocket width. Pin the elastic in place. Stitch along the marked vertical line, back stitching across the elastic. Create a box pleat at the lower edge of the pocket to accommodate the lower fullness and machine baste in place along the bottom edge. 
    
    
12. Finally, align the right edges and pin in place. Pull the elastic from the right again, adjusting the fullness to fit the pocket width. Pin the elastic in place. Create a box pleat at the lower edge of the pocket to accommodate the lower fullness. Machine baste along the bottom and up the side of the pocket. Trim the excess elastic. 
    
    NOTE: You can wait until all the pockets are adjusted and pinned and then do just one line of machine basting. We did it in steps for those who are new to working with the slipperiness of PUL. Doing it in stages insures your pockets stay exactly in position. 
    
13. Fold down ½" along one long side of the 11" x 21" PUL panel. Topstitch ⅜" from the folded edge to form a small casing. 
    
14. Cut a 24"  length of elastic. 
    
15. Attach a small safety pin to one end. With this end, thread the elastic into the casing with ½" extending from each end.The pocket unit should lay flat. 
    
16. Mark the panel for pockets: place the first line 6½" from the left edge and a second line 7" from this first line.
    
17. Mark the remaining 13" x 21" PUL panel for pocket placement, placing the first line 6½" from the left edge and a second line 7" from this first line.
    
18. Place the 11" x 21" elastic casing panel over the 13" x 21" panel with both panels right sides facing up. Align the sides and lower edges, and machine baste in place along both sides and across the bottom.
    
19. Align the marked vertical pocket lines on both pieces and pin in place. Stitch along these marked lines, back stitching across the elastic. Trim the ends of the elastic. 
    NOTE: For this pocket unit the elastic acts as a stabilizer, but is not gathered. 
    
    
20. Place the two PUL lining panels right sides together and stitch the side seams with a ½" seam.
    
21. With the lining unit still wrong side out, insert and sew the lining bottom panel into the lining body, following the same steps you used above to attach the main bottom panel to the main bag.

Key hook and facing

1. Find the 3" x 4" tab piece. Fold under both 4" sides ½" and press. 
   
2. Fold the tab in half so the folded edges align. Pin in place. Edgestitch along the double folded edges to secure. Run a second line of edgestitching along the opposite single folded side.
   
3. Insert one raw end of the tab through the swivel hook. Fold back the raw end ½" and press, then fold an additional ½" and press again, encasing the raw edges and forming a small hem. Stitch the hem in place as close to the hook as possible. 
   
   
4. Find the two 3" x 21" facing pieces.
   
5. Place them right sides together, pinning along the 3" sides.
   
6. Stitch each side seam, using a ½" seam allowance, to create a ring. Press the seams open. Turn the ring right side out.
   
7. Pin the key hook tab to the right side of the facing, 3" from one seam and with the raw edges of the hook and the facing aligned. Machine baste the tab in place approximately ⅜" from the raw edge.
   
8. Find the lining bag. It should be wrong side out. 
   
9. With the facing still right side out, slip it into the lining bag so the two layers are now right sides together. Align the edge of the facing (the edge with the tab basted in place) to the upper edge of the lining. Adjust the ring all around, matching the seams. The ring should lay nice and flat. The tab should be above the gathered pockets. 
   
10. Sew the facing to the lining, using a ½" seam allowance.
    
    
11. Finger press the lining ring up and away from the lining bag. The seam allowance should be pressed up towards the facing. Edgestitch all around, staying right next to the seam on the facing.
    

Finishing

1. With the body of the diaper bag wrong side out and the lining right side out, slide the lining inside the bag - so the two pieces are now nested and right sides together.
   
2. Match up the top raw edges all around (the raw edge of the facing with the raw edge of the exterior body of the bag). Align seams and the corners of the bottom panels. The flap and strap tabs are sandwiched between the layers. 
   
3. Using a ½" seam allowance, sew the lining to the diaper bag along the upper edge. Leave about a 5" opening along the back edge for turning the bag.
   
4. Turn the diaper bag right side out. Push the lining down inside the bag, poking the corners of the lining's bottom panel into the corners of the bag so the bottom lays as flat as possible. Pull up the flap and the strap tabs into place.
   
5. Press, making sure the raw edges of your opening are pressed in so they are flush with the sewn seam.
   
6. With the flap and tabs out of the way, edgestitch around the top of the bag, closing the opening you used for turning (we started and stopped our seam behind one of the strap tabs).
   

Assemble the adjustable strap

1. Find the long and short straps, the remaining ring and the slider.
   
2. Insert the raw edged end of the short strap through the ring. Fold back the raw edges ½" and press, then fold an additional ½" and press again, encasing the raw edges and forming a small hem. Stitch the hem in place as close to the ring as possible.
   
3. Insert the raw edged end of the long strap through one side of the slider and around the center bar. As above, fold the raw edge under ½" and then fold ½" again and stitch in place as close to the center bar as possible. 
   
   
4. Place the short strap on the right with its ring facing left (the strap is right side up). Place the long strap on the left with the with the slider also facing to the left. This strap is right side down.
   
5. Pass the finished end of the long strap through the ring. Go in from the bottom and come out over the top.
   
   
6. Flip the buckle over so it's resting against its hem.
   
7. Thread the finished end of the long strap through the slider, working from right to left. 
   
   
8. Adjust the strap to your desired length. 
   
   NOTE: If you are having trouble wrapping your head around these steps, open your lingerie drawer and look at your bra strap. Most bra straps work the same way.
   
9. Looking at the assembled bag from the front, attach the short strap on the right and the long strap on the left.
   
10. To attach, simply slip the finished end of the strap through the ring of the strap tab, fold the end to the back approximately ½" and stitch in place. Repeat to attach the second strap.